Have 3D printer...will create.

The C-series droid was introduced in Star Wars Rebels as "C1-10P - Chopper," and I will build a Canon version someday. But for now, I prefer customs, so here's my own C1 droid...C1-13L - Chelsea! Since this will be for my little girl, she will have pink and silver parts, but I haven't decided on a specific paint scheme yet. Also my plan is to have her be a "Factory Fresh" C1 astromech, since Chopper is a mashup of spare parts.

Photo of Chopper from Rebels shown for reference.

I originally started this using my DaVinci XYZ, but it needed replacing, so I upgraded to a Creality CR-10 with a bigger print area. Because of the issues I had with the XYZ, I didn't take pictures of the parts before assembly, but they are pretty straight forward. The files for the build can be found on the R2 Builders Club forums forums and on thingiverse.com here and here. I can't remember wher I found the rest of the files, but a Google search should turn up most of them.


FIRST PIC!!! Starting on the head.

FIRST COMPLETED PIECE! This is labeled as "TinyP Chopper - Dome UM - Panel 2-1" in the 3D files I got from the Astromech forums.

I have the styrene files as well, and I may make 2 heads just for the heck of it - one 3D printed as above and the other styrene.

I got impatient and decided to build the head out of styrene after all.
Side arm boxes:

Base ring and top ring.

All ribs.

Bones of the head done.

Top outer ring and top plate done.

The original prints called for one .080 skin with the details milled into it at .040. But based on my experience with my ArJay Astromech, I decided to make a flat inner skin and put the details on an outer skin, both mare from .060.

And here's where I am as of 8/31/2018. I'm waiting on more .060 plastic to finish the outer skin on the back of the head.

I finally got around to doing more work on the head. I didn;t take pics, but I used my HIPs slurry to fill holes and sanded it down smooth. I also added doors to the head and painted the accents pink for my daughter.


Click on each pic for higher resolution.

Most of these pics came from when I was originally building Chopper, but some parts will be modified for Chelsea.

I printed the "bones" of the body from files I got from Thingiverse.com out of leftover filament I had lying around...which is why some parts are black, some "clear," and some yellow, as well as white. Also, halfway through printing the top ring, my DaVinci XYZ printer died and I switched over to a Creality CR-10 with a much bigger build platform. Some of these parts are trial and error, so if you print your own, you may have better luck.

This "Front Scanner Dish" didn't come out like I wanted, so rather than reprint, I just used a little Bondo to smooth it out. Also, the "Body Chest Plate 1-1" (the one that is slightly askew) broke as I was putting it on, so I just hot glued it together and it will not be noticable once the whole thing is painted there for the new build.

Power coupling. WILL BE COVERED BY A DOOR.

Auxillary Arm - The original plans call for a partial door that leaves the arm exposed. Since I'm making a "factory Fresh" version, I reworked the .stl file and created a door. For this print, it is solid, but in the future, someone can take it and make it 2 separate pieces with a hinge if they so desire.

Auxillary Arm Door Panel - Printed on CR-10 using Cura with "Trees" support

Right Leg Mount - The back panel next to this mount, as well as the one from the other side and the back panel, I'm going to save filament and just make them out of 6mm Sintra.

Hex Adaptor

Left Leg mount - SPECIAL NOTE: This part was printed incorrectly and has been fixed. The channels for the bolts that allow the leg to move should be going counter-clockwise from the center. A new pic is coming...

I primed the whole body, then hit it with the first coat of white. You can also see the full arm installed and the correct lef leg hubb in place.

PAINTED!!! Yes, there are some slight booboos in some places, but this is for my daughter and she's happy with the way it looks for now...so much so that when she saw it painted like this for the first time, she actually squeed...This is also a steep learning curve for me in dialing in 3D print settings, and I may replace some parts in the future when I have the extra time and cash.

I got the arm files from Thingaverse as well, and the maker did warn that the 3/4" pipe file may be too short. And it was for the frame I'm building, so I may just use 3/4" PVC instead.


In my search to find legs for Chopper, I found several people with them, from 3D printed, to wood, to even someone who made them out of Styrene like what is available for a standard R2 unit. But in all of that, I didn't find anyone with stl files (3D print) or plans called a "Flat-pack" available, like the head. So I started working on my own. They are still a work in progress but you can get them below. And yes, I used the R2 leg patterns for reference.

Click on the pics for a higher resolution for download, or get the full flat pack - all parts or 3mm and 1mm separate - below.

If you would like to download and use my plans, please feel free. But keep in mind, as I said, they are still in a testing phase and subject to change. If you notice anything in error, please feel free to contact me to let me know!

Chopper Legs - Full Set Updated 4/25/2019
Chopper Legs - 3mm Parts Updated 4/25/2019
Chopper Legs - 1mm Parts (Skins) Updated 4/25/2019

  • Right Leg
  • Left Leg
  • Ankles
  • Feet
  • Battery Boxes


    This is the right leg mocked up with cardboard. Some extra parts were made after construction because, in an Alpha-test, you find things that you don't think of during the design phase on the computer.

    Right upper leg done. During the Beta test phase, the skins on the upper curve will be added.

    And checking the placement on the 3D printed body.

    And checking the sweep for 3-leg mode.

    So after lots of swearing, going back to the drawing board, and a couple of sheets of plastic, I finally have the first beta version of the right leg:

    The is the first build of the right leg made from Styrene. After I built this, I noticed that the top and bottom halves of the leg need to be separate, so the plans were adjusted accordingly.

    This pic is using a piece of 1" PVC tubing for the ankle tube. This was changed to a 3D print tube and ankle for my build.
    And the battery boxes will be more complete.

    I installed a temoporary motor for the wheel, and the wires run up the chase pipe just like I planned.

    And the battery box needs a little work, mainly to ensure the skin stays on better.

    I completely redesigned the ankle to be all one piece so that a threaded rod can be used to go through it, the piston, and then connect in the upper part of the leg.
    You can also see in this pic that this is the second right leg I constructed from the updated plans to make the bottom part of the leg separate so it can be placed in the right spot.

    I originally designed the bottom of the piston to have an inset to hide a nut, but redesigned it to be a "tab" that...

    ...would fit into the inset of the ankle tube for proper placement.

    And seated together, it is in the proper position for the leg.

    First off in this pic, you'll notice that I cut off the major portion of the face of the upper leg. (The flat pack will be upgraded to show this cut line soon) This was to get access inside to do this: These are piston caps I designed that will have the threaded rod running through it to hold everything together.

    These were originally designed to be a part of the full 3D printed leg I'm designing, but I wanted to have them as an option for the Styrene build, too.

    Marked to make sure the cap would sit in the right spot.

    Glued the cap in with Weld-On3 and then used Styrene slurry to permanently fix it in place.

    I used a locking nut on the bottom of a #10 threaded rod for the ankle (This will be redesigned a bit to allow the nut to seat inside better).

    For the top, I used a flat washer, locking washer, and a wingnut to put everything together.

    And then a dab of hot glue on the extra bits just to get a look at the whole thing together... These pics show a bottom cap I designed and 3D printed instead of using styrene so the ankle tube would set properly.

    3D files will be released here soon!

    Now on to the feet!

    More pics coming soon!

    Left Leg

    This is the very first Beta Test of the TMA-produced Styrene Leg Flatpack. IT is an ongoing project and this tutorial will be added to the full build files to be release for free to the Chopper Builders Facebook page as well as Astromech.net.

    All parts (except Top Inside Supports [TIS] shown.

    Drill a pilot hole in the chase marker to line up the Base Mid Plates (BMP).

    Clamp them together and drill out whatever size chase you prefer. It's marked for a 1/2" hole, but you can make it larger or smaller as you like.

    Drill the same hole for the Base End Plate (BEP). Glue that to the Base along with one Base Side Plate (BSP)

    Glue in the BMP parts. One does get attached securely to the BEP.

    Glue on the other BSP.

    And the top 3mm skin now is glued on.. IF YOU PREFER, similar to the R2 leg construction, you can put on the top plate before the BSP to add more glue for security if you like.

    Now starting ont he top.

    Drill pilot holes in the center hub and for the leg bolts.

    Top Base Plate Outer (TBPO) is glued onto Top Base Plate Inner (TBPI) at champher line. Line up with a pilot hole in the chase marker.

    Champher the ed=nds and drill the 1/2" hole

    Secure the end plates to the top base, and glue in the Top Inner Supports (TIS)

    Attach the Side Arch Supports (SAS)

    and the Angled Arch SUpports (AAS) Pay attention to the champher ends.

    Start with the Upper Arch Supports (UAS)

    And finished.

    Now add the top 3mm Skin. I'm leaving the center hub uncut for now until I get the arched skins attached. Also, you will notice with the top and bottom being built separatel, they are offset just a bit. This is in line with the Canon sources.

    More pics coming soon!


    The ankles were part of the Styrene Flat Pack, but have been removed in favor of the 3D print file now available. I still have those plans if you would prefer to make them out of styrene.


    As with the legs, I started with cardboard mock ups just to check for measurements, placement, and such.

    As I said above, I'm using the R2 leg patterns for reference. As such, there is only one spot for a wheel per foot. Based on what I've seen from others, I may include an option for 2 wheels per foot in the future.

    And just for fun, here's a 3D foot I worked up. The advantage of this is I can design the interior to accept 1 or 2 wheels with a drive motor. The ankle wedge is a separate part that will be available for free download soon.


    Center Foot Styrene Flat Pack Uploaded 9/5/2019

    I worked up a flat pack for a styrene center foot build and you can get the files for free by clicking the link above. They are still very much a work in progress, so be prepared for some parts not to work out until I can update with the final plans. Speaking of, the following pics were taken of the build of the 1.0 plans, which showed me a lot of areas of improvement for the 1.1 plans. Again, these were based off the R2 plans, and some liberties were taken that will be explained with each pic.

    To start, here's all the parts cut out and trimmed (V1.0 plans)

    Following the center foot build from R2 for this, you have the two tall pieces and one short.

    After drilling pilot holes in the crosshairs, leave the plans glued to the short piece, remove it from one of the tall parts, and cut off the paper from half of the last tall part right at the line for the main cut out. Glue them all together using the drill bit as a guide then set aside to repeat for the second side.

    In this pic, I have the V1.0 caster mount. It was too narrow and was fixed for the V1.1 print. But again, pilot hole in the cross hairs and glue together.

    Once the glue is set, drill out the full 3/8" (10mm) mount hole. THis design is for a single wheel, however, I may change it later (or you may change it if you wish) to be 2 casters or a tread mount.

    Now with the V1.1 parts, glue the VALLEY BASE to the underside of the short side piece and the CASTER MOUNT to the bottom. The chamfer is so small that it can be sanded down easier once all the parts are together.

    Line up and glue on the second side.

    Chamfer the edges.

    Glue on the smaller 3mm side pieces.

    Then add the base. In this pic, you can see that my sides touche the edges of the base. This is corrected with the V1.1 plans since they are supposed to be 3mm away from the edge to allow the base ring to sit flush.

    In the pic of parts above, you will see a total of 8 of these INTERIOR BRACES, but I only needed 4.

    And finally long sides and tops.

    For the base ring, be sure to square up the edges prior to removing the center portion, then glue on the long and short edges. The shorter ones are made just a bit long and should be trimmed for a tight fit. Sinde this is getting covered up by 1mm skins, I didn't feel the need to chamfer the edges.

    Base ring installed and glued down.

    And finally the center foot with my two outer feet. The center and foot on the right still require skins and finishing and the foot on the left is being cleaned up, but this should give an idea of what they look like together. One thing to notice, the valley for the center ankle is a bit more shallow. I did this to allow for a caster or, as I mentioned, a possible tread mount later.


    More pics coming!

    Custom Designed 3D Parts

    This section is constantly being updated.

    Although there are a lot of 3D .stl files available for Chopper, there are some that I do believe others have designed, but have not made them available to the public yet. So I got tired of waiting, learned Blender, and got to work. These files are available for free download and will be upgraded from time to time. If you do download a file and discover an error, please let me know, or feel free to fix it for yourself and make it available to the public as well. Happy printing!

    Ankle Cylinder - created with a wide chase in the center for motor wires. The large inset fits a 1/2" PVC tube that serves as the spine for the leg. Holes near the ends are for the bolt up from the ankle and the small inset is for the nut to seat flat. This is hidden by the Leg Piston (below).

    I redesigned the cylinder to be a part of the ankle. In doing so, the pistons were also redesigned to have a "tab" that goes into the "slot" on the full ankle. A cap was designed to go inside the main leg body so that a threaded rod can be used to hold everything together as shown above. For this I used a #10 threaded rod, locking nuts for the bottom where it sits inside the ankle, and a flat washer, locking washer, and wingnut for the top inside the leg body.

    Other options available are the spacers for the bottom of the legs between the leg and the ankle cylinder. They are each labeled "L" or "R" for the appropriate side. The right side has a noticable offset for proper placement (long side towards the front).

    Ankle Cylinder
    Cylinder End Puck
    Full Ankle And Cylinder

    Left Leg Spacer
    Right Leg Spacer

    Leg Piston - Designed with the angle at the top to connect with or set inside the leg angle. Also has a large inset at the bottom to hide the ankle nut on top of the cylinder and a narrow deep inset for the end of the bolt.
    Leg Piston
    Leg Piston Parts
    Leg Piston Cap

    Left Leg Parts - 2 pieces. Pretty self explanitory. Get the Shoulder Puck for the left leg below.
    Left Leg Center(Green)
    Left Leg Cylinder (Blue)
    Left Shoulder Puck

    Right Leg Parts
    Right Leg Cylinder (Yellow)
    Right Leg Upper (Green)
    Right Shoulder Puck (Blue)
    Right Leg Cap (Silver)

    Updated C1 Eye - This is not my original design. Someone else made this, I just used Blender to smooth it out.

    SKINS - Since I decided to make my C1 a "clean" droid, I upgraded a couple of the skin files oroginally made by ProtoProps that can be found on Thingiverse.com


    FIRST PIC - this is a full panel print since the bones done by ProtoProps don't have attachment points. Another option is being worked on that will allow this to be a door that can open.
    SECOND & THIRD PICS - These are two variations of the #11 panel. The firs is a full pane print and the second is just the lower half if anyone has the desire to make this a moveable door that works with Proto's original.