In this area, you will find tutorials on how to build the various kits that TMA has to offer. They are as extensive as I can make them, but I understand that you will still have some questions about some steps. Please thoroughly read through the tutorial for the piece you purchased before submitting an email for questions. If you find yourself still having questions, I will do my best to answer in a timely fassion. To get a better look, click the pictures for high rezolution images.

Please also understand that as the customer, you assume all risks and necessary safety precautions when constructing these pieces.

1) DW Gauntlet kits
2) DW Toppers
3) Classic Mando Gauntlets
4) Jango Fett Knees
5) Death Watch Thigh Holsters
6) Sabine Sprayer
7) Helmet Construction


Here is what you will receive in your kit:

(pictured is the V1 Gauntlet set. V2 gauntlets sets are put together the same as follows.)
1 ea. left upper and lower shell
1 ea. right upper and lower shell
2 inset flats


cut out
Trim all the flashing off the pieces and smooth as desired. If you so choose, cut out the insets on the upper and lower shells now.


first glue

Hold the flats up against the lower shell and make a pencil mark outlining the opening of the inset. Sand the inside of the lower shell where the flat will lay and sand all of the flat except inside the pencil mark. Use E6000 or comparable adhesive to permanently affix the flat to the lower shell. Clamp together and leave this to set for a minimum of 3 hours (overnight is best).



Trim the upper shell to lay flat with the molded side (left side of pic). When on your arm, it should lay as roughly half the diameter of your arm, give or take.


Starting with this step, I show how to permanently bond the top and bottom halves with E6000 adhesive. If you would like to use hinges instead, please see the Classic Gauntlet tutorial below. The concept is the same and can be translated here.
tutorial 4

Use hot glue to temporarily bond the upper shell to the flat. Using tape, place the gauntlet on your arm (WITH YOUR FLIGHT SUIT SLEEVE ON!!!) and tape it snugly together. Use a pencil to mark where the upper shell overlaps the lower shell and remove the gauntlet.


second glue

Trim the lower shell to about 1 ½” above the pencil line. Sand the lower shell above the line and the inside of the upper shell. Using the E6000 or comparable adhesive, glue and clamp together and leave this to set for a minimum of 3 hours (overnight is best).
Another option for this step is to add a piano hinge if you do not want to glue the halves together permanently.




Depending on how large or small you made your gaunt, it will be slightly oval at this point. Use whichever heating method you prefer to round it out.


on arm

Once you are satisfied with your set-up, pop the hot glue tabs from earlier and use whichever closure method you prefer.


You are now ready to greeblie, paint, and weather your gaunts!


To attach your toppers, simply lay the topper on the gauntlet and draw an outline. Make a line about 1/4" in for your glue line.

You have the choice of either simply gluing it on with something like E6000 adhesive, or if you plan on putting in lighting or other additions, you can cut out the inner lined area

Apply your adhesive to the gauntlet...

And to the topper...

And clamp together for t a few hours until the glue is fully set.

Personally, I like to add a line of hot glue to fill in the remaining gap, but you are free to use bondo or other filler of your choice. After that...paint and add in the greeblies.

Classic Mando Gauntlets

Here is what you will start out with: 8 piece kit

(L to R) Right bottom, Right top, Right side box (lower piece), right top box (upper piece), Left side box, rocket, Left top, Left bottom

1) These gauntlets have been updated for larger arms, but may still need shims. If you need to make it bigger, that is easy with scrap pieces of 1/8" (.125) HIPs, Sintra, or even For Sale signs layered together.
2) This tutorial is a "down and dirty," done while doing other shop work. As such, as the pictures progress, you will see my oopsie with some resin dye that I didn't realize was on my rivet gun...and it quickly got everywhere...
3) This tutorial was done with pieces from the previous mold which has since been updeted. If you have one of these old kits, they can be easily modified with a little trimming.

Now, on to the tutorial! Please read through the whole thing and familiarize yourself with the steps and parts you will need to get to complete it before starting.

You will need to get a few things to complete the construction of this kit. To start, get a 4 foot Continuous hings (I picked mine up at Home Depot for about $10)

The hinge is made with a notched part that is supposed to hold in the pin, so look for that piece and cut it off with a cutting wheel on a rotary tool. Next, lay the hinge on the sides of the gauntlets and cut them to size. Three should be about the same length (leave an extra inch on each one) and one should be longer for the outside of the right gauntlet. The four stages are shown in the pic - 1) first cut for length, 2) cutting off just the hinge metal (two links) to expose the pin, 3) bending the pin at a 90* angle, and 4) pulling the pin out to separate the hinge halves. This last step was done to just show the concept of how the hinge will be used.

This next step is milti-part. We're going to start with the left side. First, lay the hinge with the bent side of the pin towards the back of the gauntlet and mark your drill holes.

Next, line up the outer box with the gauntlet top...

...and clamp the box, the top, and the hinge together.

I used 1/8" rivets for this, so drill your holes through both the top and the box and set the rivets in the holes. You can use small bolts and nuts if you wish.

Before actually popping the rivets, make sure the bottom of the gauntlet lines up with the top...

...drill the holes, remove the hings pin to work with it easier...

...and pop the rivets. (Here is where you see the beginning of the black resin dye getting everywhere... ;) )

Replace the hinge pin for the next step.

Lay the next hinge on the outside of the gauntlet to mark the holes.

Install the outside hinge. I found the best way to do this is to remove the pin from the first hinge you installed and from this one and rivet it to the gauntlet in separate pieces.

And here's the completeted halves on a manequin arm for show.

The idea for putting it on is to remove the pin from the outside hinge and this will allow the gauntlet to open freely.

The rocket that comes with your kit is resin cast from a 3D printed master. I offer it as a free addition to your full kit and the rocket is not available otherwise. If you find yourself in need of a replacement rocket and do not have access to a 3D printer, Email me and we can discuss a cost for replacement.

Remove the hinge pins from both sides of the gauntlet and set the top aside.

For this tutorial, I used #10 screws (shown below) and drilled out the rocket holes just a bit smaller.

Once you drill the holes in the rocket, lay the rocket where you want it on the top half of the left gauntlet and mark the side of the tray.

Transfer those lines into the bottom of the tray...

...and drill your holes just slightly bigger than what you will need for the screws you choose.

As said above, I used #10 x 3/4 long screws, but you can use whatever you wish.

Screw the rocklet to the top, being careful not to overtighten and strip out the holes in the rocket,

And here you have it.

Left side done!

For this side, follow the same steps as the left gauntlet, putting the longer of the remining hinges on the outside of the gauntlet. BEFORE RIVETING THE HINGE ON THE TOP HALF, hold the side box up to the gauntlet where you want it and make your marks for the holes you will need to drill to account for the rivets. Drill those holse just a slight bit bigger than the rivets.

I use E6000 industrial adhesive for pretty much everything, so follow the instructions for that or whatever you choose and...

...glue the side box to the right gauntlet.

The box on the back should sit flush. Sand it down if necessary.

E6000 adhesive again.

And clamp together. Let this sit overnight to allow the adhesive to fully cure.

And here are your completed gauntlets after painting with a silver base coat.


Classic Mando KNEES

Fett Knee Kit
This kit includes 8 pieces:
2 main knee bodies
2 inner "F" pieces
2 outer greeblie mounts
2 1" bracers

This picture represents the finished trimmed kit you will receive. Production webbing can occour in areas that will be covered by the plates. This is normal and will in no way affect your build.


Lay the "F" pieces on the inner flat side of the main bodies and trace where the "F" lays flat. These are your sanding and adhesive guidelines.

Whatever adhesive you chose to use, it is always a wise step to lightly sand where the glue will be. This allows for better adhesion. Sand, apply the glue, and...

...clamp together.

Do the same for the other side.

Allow the sides to dry for at least 8 hours (overnight is the best). Now, in some cases, the greeblie mount will need a bit of "extra bonding help." If this happens, don't be afraid to dab a bit of hot glue inside the area sticking out.


After the glue has set up overnight, remove the clamps and lay the bracers insid the main body.

They are left long on purpose to ensure proper seating, so mark what needs to be trimmed and...

...trim to fit. Glue and clamp the bracers in place and again, allow to dry over night.


Here's what your kit should look like when finished!

Enjoy your Classic Mando knees!

Death Watch Thigh Holsters

This tutorial has been upgraded! These new pictures and new instructions reflect the changes made to the molds to make it easier for the customer to construct these thigh holsters.

To start, here is the holster box. Both boxes will be done the same. As you can see, there are molded tabs in the boxes.

Cut the inset tabs out using a sharp knife or a rotary tool with a cutting disk.

On the thigh plates, you can see the new inset slots. Cut these out also with a rotary tool with a cutting disk, or with a sharp knife. They will need to be 3mm wide to allow the tabs from the box to slide in.

Here is what the thighs will look like when the slots are cut out correctly.

Place the tabs from the box into the slots of the thigh plate. As you can see, the bottom will need some extra cutting to form to the curve...

Again with a sharp knife or rotary tool and sanding drum (or ripper bit), cut out just enough to allow it to sit almost flush.

When you have both thighs and boxes cut out, here is how it should look from underneath.

I use a heat gun to gently heat the tabs to press them flat against the thigh. DON'T HEAT IT TOO MUCH!!! The thigh could warp...so use low speed and only heat until the tab starts to curl. That will be plenty to get the tab to bend flat.

All tabs are done!

And here are the thighs from the top. As you can see, the holster boxes should lay flush against the thigh plates with very small gaps...and speaking of...

...just like the old tutorial, I use hot glue to "weld" my parts together. The bottom corners should have a small gap to allow water to drain should you be caught in inclement weather. Also, you can use epoxy or Bondo if you wish, just be sure to follow the directions to ensure a proper result.

Enjoy your Death Watch thighs!

Sabine Sprayer

BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!! Please take note that this is an old set of pictures from when I first put this together. You don't have to paint before assembly, but I did so you could see the end result come together. ALSO, please see the special note below concerning the buttons at that step.

To start off, you will receive 9 pieces to this kit. The sprayer body, the nozzle, the switch, gas tank, and 5 buttons. These will be "raw" and will need to be trimmed a little before assembly.

I use E6000 adhesive, but any epoxy will do. Add some per the instructions to the body...

and the bottom of the nozzle.

After the recommended wait time, attach...

and clamp together.

As I said above, I painted these parts before assembly, but that is not required.

Attach the switch in the sam fashion as the nozzle....

...the gas tank...

...and the buttons as well.

ONE SPECIAL TIP ABOUT THE BUTTONS! The buttons are all made the same size, but since they are raw, one trick is to attach them using the flattest side to the main body, then sand all five buttons down evenly once the glue has firmly set. If you do decide to pre-paint as shown above, simply mask off the rest of the sprayer or use a small brush to repaint what was sanded off.

Helmet Construction

To start off, your helmet "raw" kit will come with all the pieces you need to complet it, with some exceptions. Follow these steps for ALL TMA helmets (DW, NiO, Sabine, and Mini not shown).

HAZARD WARNING: The resin for these helmets is a fiberglass hybrid. PLEASE take all necessary precautions to protect your health, such as wearing protective clothing, eyeware, a mask or respirator, and PLEASE be careful when using any tools (belt sander, rotary tool, knives, etc.)

This first tutorial is for the Classic helmet. You will be responsible for the RF hinge bolt (a 1" #10 bolt works best) and the magnets for the ear cap (the indents for it are sized for a 10mmX2mm rare earth magnet available at Walmart).

Here are all the parts as you will receive them.

The first thing you will do is use a cutting wheel to remove the visor area. Because I do this all the time, I invested in a diamond blade, but a standard cutting wheel will work fine. FOR ANY HELMET THAT YOU GET FROM TMA - this will need to be done.

Before or after (it doesn;t matter) the visor is cut out, you will notice that the bottom ring needs trimming.

Make a mark about 3-4mm around the edge as a reference.

Sand down the edge to the line you made. Again, because this is what I do all the time, I have a belt sander, but a rotary tool with a sanding drum works fine as well.

Use the rotary tool with the sanding drum to make all the edges 3-4mm thick. This includes finishing up on the bottom ring (if you use a belt sander) and inside the visor area.

Now, again, your helmet will come raw. As such, it will have a two-part mold seam along the dome and the sides of the helmet.

Use a light grit sand paper to sand this down. I used a palm sander, but it can be done by hand.

Now you are ready to start assembly of the helmet. I use and recommend E6000 adhesive, but any industrial contact cement, super glue (the gel kind), or two-part epoxy will work as well. Allow the adhesive to set the recommended time before attaching the ears.

I made the investment in these DeWalt C-clamps from Home Depot because they get in the visor area perfectly. If you don't have these, you will need to find something that can apply pressure to the ears as the adhesive sets.

After setting the ears in place, clamp the top and bottom. Don't worry if a little bit of the adhesive squishes out. It's better to hace too much and have to clean it off, than have not enough and the ear not set right.

Repeat for the other side of the helmet and let it sit for around 24 hours for full curing of the adhesive.

After leaving the helmet for a day, use a knive to cut off any excess.
I recommend a #10 bolt 1" long for the hinge. Drill a hole in the indented space in the upper ear base.

Insert the bolt...

...and washer/nut on the inside. This step can be done at any time, even after painting, so it's not critical at this point and is here to show the process.

The upper ear and cap are molded to use a 10mm x 2mm rare earth magnet. I got the ones in this picture in bulk from China, but you can find these at any craft store. You will need a total of 6. Here is a sample of what you can find at Wal-Mart:

To match polarity, I put two magnets together and mark the outside with a sharpie.

Put a bit of your adhesive/epoxy in spots for the magnets on the helmet and the ear cap...

...and after a moment to allow it to set, insert the magnets with the marked side down. Allow this to set about 24-48 hours until the adhesive is fully cured.

And finally (pre-painting) this is what you should end up with...A fully constructed Classic Mandalorian helmet. (The line in the stalk is the metal rib cast into it for strength.)

For the RFs on the DW, NiO, and Sabine, this is as simple as using hot glue in the RF top hole and pressing the stalk into it. It should set up quickly, and any glue that squeezes out can be trimmed off with a knife. You can use epoxy if desired, but hot glue will work just fine.

Moving on to a Ramikadyc helmet - here's what you get with your kit. In this picture, the visor area was already cut out for construction, but yours will have that part intact and you will need to remove it.

After applying the adhesive and allowing the set time, clamp the nose piece on first.

For this picture, the insets in the cheek pieces have already been set and allowed to cure in place. You can set these all at the same time if you'd like. As you can see, the cheek piece is centered in the space about a finger-width away from each side edge.

Clamp each cheek piece with 2 clamps to make sure it sets properly. Again, if some adhesive squishes out, that's fine.

For the Ram and the Mini helmets, the visor will come precut. For all others, you will receive a full visor sheet. Replacements can be found at HomElectric.com.

Use a sheet of blank paper to mark out an outline of the visor area. This can be done by putting the paper inside (shown) or taping it to the outside of the helmet and marking from the inside.

Lay out the template and add some extra space to glue it inside the helmet.

Cut out the template, lay it on the visor sheet, mark with a sharpie, and cut it out.

Lay the cut visor in the helmet and make any marks to do a final trim/fit in the helmet.

I HIGHLY recommend waiting until after the helmet is painted before installing the visor, but this is the process. (Sabine helmet shown)
Lay the visor inside and make sure it sets flush with the helmet. BE SURE TO REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE FILM BEFORE PERMANENT INSTALLATION!

Dab a bit of hot glue (or epoxy) at the bottom. Hold in place and let this set before proceeding.

Dab a bit of glue in the center of the top.

Secure the sides with glue and again, hold in place and allow to set before proceeding.

Once the "tabs" are set, glue around the edges of the visor. You don't need to do the top edge, and it should allow for some air flow while wearing it.

After the glue sets, You should be good to go!

Here's the new MOVEABLE SABINE RF!!! After much R&D and trial and error, I have this current version of the ear cap that allows the RF to move up and down. It's still very much a work in progress, so any hands-on experience and suggestions is accepted.

THis will require two extra holes to be drilled by the customer for now and future incarnations will be even easier.

Once the holes are drilled and the metal strips adjusted and glued into place (and the bolt secured with a nut on the inside)...

the RF can stay up...

or move down as the customer wishes.

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me!

More to come as TMA adds to the arsenal of armor!