Have 3D printer...will create.

The C1 series droid was introduced in Star Wars Rebels as "C1-10P - Chopper," and I will build a Canon version someday. But for now, I prefer customs, so here's my own C1 droid...C1-13S - Chester! He will have purple and silver parts just like Arjay, but I haven't decided on a specific paint scheme yet.

Photo of Chopper from Rebels shown for reference.

I originally started this using my DaVinci XYZ, but it needed replacing, so I upgraded to a Creality CR-10 with a bigger print area. Because of the issues I had with the XYZ, I didn't take pictures of the parts before assembly, but they are pretty straight forward. The files for the build can be found on the BB-8 builders clum forums forums and on thingiverse.com here and here. I can't remember wher I found the rest of the files, but a Google search should turn up most of them.


FIRST PIC!!! Starting on the head.

FIRST COMPLETED PIECE! This is labeled as "TinyP Chopper - Dome UM - Panel 2-1" in the 3D files I got from the Astromech forums.

I have the styrene files as well, and I may make 2 heads just for the heck of it - one 3D printed as above and the other styrene.

I got impatient and decided to build the head out of styrene after all.
Side arm boxes:

BAse ring and top ring.

All ribs.

Bones of the head done.

Top outer ring and top plate done.

The original prints called for one .080 skin with the details milled into it at .040. But based on my experience with my ArJay Astromech, I decided to make a flat inner skin and put the details on an outer skin, both mare from .060.

And here's where I am as of 8/31/2018. I'm waiting on more .060 plastic to finish the outer skin on the back of the head.


Click on each pic for higher resolution.

I printed the "bones" of the body from files I got from Thingiverse.com out of leftover filament I had lying around...which is why some parts are black, some "clear," and some yellow, as well as white. Also, halfway through printing the top ring, my DaVinci XYZ printer died and I switched over to a Creality CR-10 with a much bigger build platform. Some of these parts are trial and error, so if you print your own, you may have better luck.

This "Front Scanner Dish" didn't come out like I wanted, so rather than reprint, I just used a little Bondo to smooth it out. Also, the "Body Chest Plate 1-1" (the one that is slightly askew) broke as I was putting it on, so I just hot glued it together and it will not be noticable once the whole thing is painted.

Power coupling.

Auxillary Arm

Right Leg Mount - The back panel next to this mount, as well as the one from the other side and the back panel, I'm going to save filament and just make them out of 6mm Sintra.

Hex Adaptor

Left Leg mount

I got the arm files from Thingaverse as well, and the maker did warn that the 3/4" pipe file may be too short. And it was for the frame I'm building, so I may just use 3/4" PVC instead.


In my search to find legs for Chopper, I found several people with them, from 3D printed, to wood, to even someone who made them out of Styrene like what is available for a standard R2 unit. But in all of that, I didn't find anyone with stl files (3D print) or plans called a "Flat-pack" available, like the head. So I started working on my own. They are still a work in progress and when completed, I'll be releasing them as a full PDF file suitable for printing. And yes, I used the R2 leg patterns for reference.

If you would like to download and use my plans, please feel free. But keep in mind that they are still in the testing phase and subject to change. If you notice anything in error, please feel free to contact me to let me know!

Chopper Legs - Full Set Updated 4/10/2019
Chopper Legs - 3mm Parts Updated 4/10/2019
Chopper Legs - 1mm Parts (Skins) Updated 4/10/2019

What follows here is the testing phase with cardboard used for mockups.

  • Right Leg
  • Left Leg
  • Ankles
  • Feet
  • Battery Boxes


    This is the right leg. Some extra parts were made after construction because, in an Alpha-test, you find things that you don't think of during the design phase on the computer.

    Right upper leg done. During the Beta test phase, the skins on the upper curve will be added.

    And checking the placement on the 3D printed body.

    And checking the sweep for 3-leg mode.

    So after lots of swearing, going back to the drawing board, and a couple of sheets of plastic, I finally have the first beta version of the right leg:

    The second beta will have the top and bottom of the main leg separated and skinned.

    I'm using a piece of 1" PVC tubing for the ankle tube for the moment. The 3D printed struts will be resin cast when I'm done.

    And the battery boxes will be more complete.

    I installed a temoporary motor for the wheel, and the wires run up the chase pipe just like I planned.

    And the battery box needs a little work, mainly to ensure the skin stays on better.

    More pics coming soon!

    Left Leg

    This is the very first Beta Test of the TMA-produced Styrene Leg Flatpack. IT is an ongoing project and this tutorial will be added to the full build files to be release for free to the Chopper Builders Facebook page as well as Astromech.net.

    All parts (except Top Inside Supports [TIS] shown.

    Drill a pilot hole in the chase marker to line up the Base Mid Plates (BMP).

    Clamp them together and drill out whatever size chase you prefer. It's marked for a 1/2" hole, but you can make it larger or smaller as you like.

    Drill the same hole for the Base End Plate (BEP). Glue that to the Base along with one Base Side Plate (BSP)

    Glue in the BMP parts. One does get attached securely to the BEP.

    Glue on the other BSP.

    And the top 3mm skin now is glued on.. IF YOU PREFER, similar to the R2 leg construction, you can put on the top plate before the BSP to add more glue for security if you like.

    Now starting ont he top.

    Drill pilot holes in the center hub and for the leg bolts.

    Top Base Plate Outer (TBPO) is glued onto Top Base Plate Inner (TBPI) at champher line. Line up with a pilot hole in the chase marker.

    Champher the ed=nds and drill the 1/2" hole

    Secure the end plates to the top base, and glue in the Top Inner Supports (TIS)

    Attach the Side Arch Supports (SAS)

    and the Angled Arch SUpports (AAS) Pay attention to the champher ends.

    Start with the Upper Arch Supports (UAS)

    And finished.

    Now add the top 3mm Skin. I'm leaving the center hub uncut for now until I get the arched skins attached. Also, you will notice with the top and bottom being built separatel, they are offset just a bit. This is in line with the Canon sources.

    More pics coming soon!


    The first ankles I made were incorrect, as they needed to be MUCH taller.

    More pics coming soon!


    As with the legs, I started with cardboard mock ups just to check for measurements, placement, and such.

    As I said above, I'm using the R2 leg patterns for reference. As such, there is only one spot for a wheel per foot. Based on what I've seen from others, I may include an option for 2 wheels per foot in the future.

    Testing out with the original alpha ankle

    The inset cutout here is a wire chase to get power to the foot motors.


    More pics coming!

    Custom Designed 3D Parts

    Although there are a lot of 3D .stl files available for Chopper, there are some that I do believe others have designed, but have not made them available to the public yet. So I got tired of waiting, learned Blender, and got to work. These files are available for free download and will be upgraded from time to time. If you do download a file and discover an error, please let me know, or feel free to fix it for yourself and make it available to the public as well. Happy printing!

    Ankle Cylinder - created with a wide chase in the center for motor wires. The large inset fits a 1/2" PVC tube that serves as the spine for the leg. Holes near the ends are for the bolt up from the ankle and the small inset is for the nut to seat flat. This is hidden by the Leg Piston (below).
    Ankle Cylinder
    Cylinder End Puck

    Leg Piston - Designed with the angle at the top to connect with or set inside the leg angle. Also has a large inset at the bottom to hide the ankle nut on top of the cylinder and a narrow deep inset for the end of the bolt.
    Leg Piston

    Left Leg Parts - 2 pieces. Pretty self explanitory. Get the Shoulder Puck for the left leg below.
    Left Leg Center(Green)
    Left Leg Cylinder (Blue)
    Left Shoulder Puck

    Right Leg Parts
    Right Leg Cylinder (Yellow)
    Right Leg Upper (Green)
    Right Shoulder Puck (Blue)
    Right Leg Cap (Silver)

    ALTERNATE SHOULDER PUCK - This is just a very basic round puck to use for the shoulders if desired.

    Basic Shoulder Puck